This Sunday is the day they celebrate St. Mary and everyone will go to a church or monastery named after Mary in order to celebrate. Nearly every single church or monastery in Macedonia is named after some kind of saint and almost every single day of the Orthodox Calendar is given to celebrate a saint. The days on which you celebrate the saints who are the most honored in Macedonia have become holidays and a good reason to party/get together. Since this weekend we are talking about Mary, the mother of Jesus, it is a big deal and nearly everyone will be celebrating. There is a monastery named after Mary about 6 miles in the mountains outside a town called Kicevo and it is one of the few areas where everyone in the western half of Macedonia will go if they want to go somewhere outside of their local church named after Mary. Both couples invited us to go to this monastery and fortunately one wanted to do it on Saturday night, and the other wanted to do it Sunday morning. Tonight Mandy and Kate stayed home and I went with the first couple. It turns out it was a great night to go because tomorrow they are expecting over 10,000 people to visit the monastery throughout the day and there was practically no one there when we got there. The absence of a lot of people gave me a good chance to look around and take pictures. First let me show you a couple of pictures of the monastery:
I was able to enter the church and inside the church was much bigger than most churches, but still was nonetheless normal. They had several stands for lighting candles, several icons for kissing and gifting, one special area where there was "Blessed (literally "crossed") water, and a hole. A hole? Yes, see below:
This woman was a part of a LONG line of people waiting to pass through the hole under the icon of Mary three times in order to be blessed by Mary. People were lined up for so many different reasons, but they all believed that passing through the hole three times would give them a better chance of getting what they wanted/needed. Some people were passing through for relatives, some people were passing through for friends, but most were passing through for themselves to get health as well as something else. This was one of the saddest parts of the day for me. This old lady was complaining about her knee hurting (and she touches it at one point in the film), but she had to do it the third time to be heard. At the same time (at the beginning of the video) you will see a beaded necklace/loop passed three times over the body of the lady on the right. This is supposed to represent the transference of blessing from Mary to her. That is why she kisses the necklace as well as crosses herself to Mary at the end. I am sorry for the dipping camera, but although I was allowed to record this, some people were offended that I was recording this very serious event so I made it look like I was reviewing pictures.
We traveled about an hour to get the monastery and while we there, the crowd started pouring in. I sat in the corner of the church and watched people light candles, kiss saints, drink holy water (after they paid for it), and climb through a hole 3 times. There were many people there who were doing it because others were doing it or it was tradition without meaning, but there were also several people who really believed in what they were doing. The reason this is so sad is because although they desire to please God, they are far from understanding Him and knowing Him. God is not reached through lucky charms and dances, and candles are not rabbit's feet. While I was there, they marched a sheep around the church three times and people were touching it for good luck. When everyone had touched it, "for health", they released the sheep into the herd to bless the herd that it might prosper... again "for health". The crowd had dissipated by the time I took this picture. A hireling for the sheep and these two women were the last to touch it.
I prayed hard for these people that someone would tell them that they could know God, that they could talk with Him personally, that they could know His will, that they didn't have to climb through a hole three times to be blessed or any other sort of hokus pokus. I really prayed that someone would explain to them that it was too late to do anything for the dead but it was not too late for them. I wanted to read Luke 16 and harp on the fact that their is no warning from the dead and the dead are fixed in their place, but there still is a chance for us. I also prayed that if God would allow us, we would come back here when our work in "big-town" Ohrid was done ... but I also prayed that people from Ohrid would already have carried the message here before we got the chance! It was a wonderful experience in terms of meeting people, drinking coffee, and learning more about their view of the faith.
Pray for the villages and villagers of Macedonia!